Another Austin restaurant found its way onto the Bon Appetit best new restaurants for 2015. Dai Due, the labor of love for chef Jesse Griffiths, is equal parts farm-to-table and upscale butchery with an innovative cocktail program thrown in for good measure. Placing at number 6 on the list, the restaurant started out as a farmer’s market stall, a small format culinary school offering classes in butchery and an underground supper club.
With its brick and mortar opening last August, Dai Due has continued to gain momentum and buzz with its interesting and forward-thinking dishes. Equal parts diner and supper club, the restaurant opens for breakfast and lunch, closing at 3pm for the supper club reset. We decided to sample some of the breakfast and lunch menu items for our foray into the Dai Due universe.
Since they are known for their seasonal focus we started with the Centex Mezze. Featuring ‘house made feta, house-cured olives, sweet potato hummus, sprouted wheat and dried tomato tabouli, venison and kale dolmas, radish top pkhali, and house grilled flatbread’, this plate was a symphony of flavors. The sweet potato hummus was flavored with garlic and just a touch of tahini and cumin, then drizzled with olive oil. The house cured olives had a subtle briny garlic taste, and the flatbread was slightly smoky from the wood burning oven. Among the more surprising tastes were the sprouted wheat berry tabouli and the radish top pkhali. Pkhali is a Georgian dish composed of greens, nuts, spices such as fenugreek, and garlic olive oil that is pureed into a dip. It was one of my favorite flavors on the board.
Our next side trip came packaged in a house made chile drenched sesame bun. Covered with masa coated oysters, julienned watermelon radish, cilantro and chorizo Mexicano, this pambazo was a flavorful and well executed sandwich that was served with pickled jalapenos for those that like their sandwiches with a little more heat.
Known for their house charcuterie and smoked meats, we couldn’t leave without sampling some of their specialty meats. We decided on the hash because of the variety of meats as well as some more interesting vegetable additions, namely scarlet turnips and beet ketchup. While I loved the various house cured meats, I have to say that the local sweet potatoes were the star. Sweet and clean with just a hint of smoke, they were the epitome of the Dai Due philosophy: buy it fresh, buy it local and know your farmer.
What better way to finish a delicious meal than a spot of dessert? My dining partner has a terrible weakness for all things squash, so the sweet buttercup squash empanada with natilla was the obvious choice. I have to say that this dessert was something I might eat every day. They have mastered the crust, which was perfectly flaky and crisp. The filling was a delicately sweet squash with just a hint of warming spices. We ate this with our fingers, unabashedly dipping into the natilla custard. And someone at the table (not me) finished off the natilla with one generous swig.
I would say that our visit to Dai Due was a resounding success and the first of many visits to come.